Soul Food · Authentic-ish Soul Food
Oxtail Stew
370 kcal a serving, against 477 for the traditional version. That is 107 kcal off, or 22%, with 47.1g of protein. Serves 6. 4 hours (plus overnight chilling).
What the traditional version is
Traditionally, this is whole oxtail segments, browned, then simmered gently with carrot, onion, celery, stock, and sometimes tomato, thickened with flour or by reduction. The rendered fat stays in the stew, making a rich, glossy gravy. Served up with plenty of the fat-laden sauce spooned over the meat and whatever starch you like.
What changed, and what each change costs
Oxtail for half shin of beef with half oxtail
Oxtail is beefy, gelatinous and full of flavour, but about half its weight is fat and bone. Beef shin brings the same long-cooked richness and plenty of collagen, but much less fat. Splitting the two means you still get the unmistakeable oxtail taste, but not quite as much on your arteries.
What it costs you. Sorry, but the mouthfeel isn't the same. You'll miss some of the stickiness and unctuousness that all that oxtail fat brings. The stew still feels hearty, just a touch less luxurious.
Plain flour as thickener for a smaller amount plus blitzed vegetables
Flour thickens, but it's just starch and doesn't bring much else. By blitzing some of the braised veg into the gravy, you thicken it naturally and keep the flavour in.
What it costs you. You'll lose the silkiness and shine you get from a proper flour-rich gravy. The stew leans closer to a rustic, chunky sauce. If you want high-gloss, you'll have to apologise to your arteries.
Leave out most of the oil, using just enough to brown the meat
There's already a sea of rendered oxtail fat. Using less frying oil just cuts the load up front.
What it costs you. You might have to wipe the pan in batches and pay extra attention to browning. If you're not careful, things can stick, but no real loss to flavour once it all simmers down.
Chill the stew overnight and skim solidified fat
Most of the fat in oxtail floats conveniently to the top when chilled, waiting to be scooped off. This is the single biggest short-cut to making it lighter without losing the meat.
What it costs you. The loss is all in the finish: it's not as shiny and doesn't coat your lips in the same lavish way. But the stew is still rich enough to satisfy on a damp Tuesday.
The numbers
| Per serving | Traditional | Lightened |
|---|---|---|
| Calories | 477 | 370 |
| Protein | 58.8g | 47.1g |
| Fat | 18.5g | 13.3g |
| Saturated fat | 4.8g | 4.2g |
| Carbohydrate | 15.9g | 13.6g |
| Protein per 100 kcal | 12.3g | 12.7g |
Every figure is computed from the recipe's own weighed ingredient list against public food composition databases. The appendix in Authentic-ish Soul Food prints the exact database row used for each ingredient, so any number here can be checked.
Allergens. gluten, celery.
The method is in the book
This is nearly as hearty as the classic, but the stew won't coat your lips in quite the same way. If you love that greasy gloss, you'll notice its absence. If you want beefy, deep-flavoured stew with less of the beef-fat hangover, you might actually prefer it this way. The first time you scrape off what looks like a candle-making project, you'll see what you were eating before. I won't pretend the gravy's as glossy, but the taste is all there and your arteries will thank you.
The quantities and the method for this dish are in Authentic-ish Soul Food, along with 52 more. It is not out yet. The swap kit is free in the meantime.