Soul Food · Authentic-ish Soul Food
Chess Pie
236 kcal a serving, against 425 for the traditional version. That is 189 kcal off, or 44%, with 6.2g of protein. Serves 8. 1 hour 15 minutes (plus cooling).
What the traditional version is
The classic chess pie starts with a shortcrust pastry shell, filled with a mixture of melted butter, lots of caster sugar, whole eggs, a little cornmeal (not always), a splash of vinegar for balance, and sometimes a drop of vanilla. The mixture sets as it bakes to a glossy, firm custard, just on the edge of tooth-aching. Served in thick slices, usually at room temperature.
What changed, and what each change costs
Shortcrust pastry for filo pastry
Shortcrust is pure butter and flour, holding as much fat as a decent sandwich. Filo is basically flour and water, which lets me swap half the pastry fat for misted olive oil. The base is thinner and crisper, so you lose some chew but keep a shell.
What it costs you. Filo is less forgiving - slice too soon and you'll pull the whole thing apart. Gone is that rich, soft wall of pastry. Instead, you get plenty of crunch and a nod to pie structure. No one's going to pretend it's better.
Butter in the filling for a mix of light cream cheese and a splash of melted butter
The original is shameless on butter. I lighten the load a bit by bulking with light cream cheese, which keeps a creamy texture and gives a touch of tang to help make up for less fat.
What it costs you. The filling loses a bit of that slick, buttery mouthfeel. There's less of a warm hug and more of a firm handshake. But if you want a set custard that isn't just baked margarine, this does the trick.
All the sugar for half sugar, half fat-free Greek yoghurt and a spoonful of cornflour
Reducing the sugar outright means the filling won't set. Mixing in Greek yoghurt and just enough cornflour means you can have a firm, sliceable pie that still has the right gloss, at the cost of a bit of tradition.
What it costs you. Let's be honest, chess pie is meant to rattle your fillings. This won't - it's sweet but it's not going to make your dentist rich. You get a sharper note from the yoghurt and a more grown-up vibe.
Whole milk for semi-skimmed milk
Easy win, this. Swapping to semi-skimmed holds the texture, keeps a bit of creaminess and loses enough fat that it's worth doing.
What it costs you. You won't taste this swap unless you're a cow.
The numbers
| Per serving | Traditional | Lightened |
|---|---|---|
| Calories | 425 | 236 |
| Protein | 4.2g | 6.2g |
| Fat | 23.2g | 9.8g |
| Saturated fat | 13.9g | 4.3g |
| Carbohydrate | 52g | 30.9g |
| Protein per 100 kcal | 1g | 2.6g |
Every figure is computed from the recipe's own weighed ingredient list against public food composition databases. The appendix in Authentic-ish Soul Food prints the exact database row used for each ingredient, so any number here can be checked.
Allergens. eggs, gluten, milk, sulphites.
The method is in the book
Nobody is going to say this is better than the real thing. The first bite will tell you what you're missing: that deep, buttery richness and a serious sugar rush. But you do get a proper wedge of pie - creamy, sweet, with a crisp edge and enough gloss that you won't feel cheated. It's not chess pie as your nan made it. It's chess pie stripped down and forced to act sensible. Eat it and remember the original fondly, then make a sticky note for your next birthday to go full sugar and butter again.
The quantities and the method for this dish are in Authentic-ish Soul Food, along with 52 more. It is not out yet. The swap kit is free in the meantime.