Soul Food · Authentic-ish Soul Food
Dandelion Greens
188 kcal a serving, against 286 for the traditional version. That is 98 kcal off, or 34%, with 26.2g of protein. Serves 4. 1 hour.
What the traditional version is
In the classic recipe, dandelion greens are soaked and rinsed, then boiled for ages in a pot with a chunk of salted pork belly or fatback. There's plenty of salt and a slug of vinegar at the end. Once the pork's given up all its flavour, it's sliced and served on top of the greens.
What changed, and what each change costs
Salted pork belly for smoked turkey leg
The pork belly's there for two reasons - salt and fat. It makes the cooking liquor taste like something you'd bottle as perfume if you're into that sort of thing, but it's pure fat with very little actual meat. Smoked turkey has enough flavour to keep things interesting, but is leagues leaner and far heavier on the protein.
What it costs you. You lose that lip-coating, gelatinous mouthfeel the pork gives you. The pot liquor's not quite the same, and the greens won't feel as rich. No one's ever waxed lyrical about turkey fat, but you'll live.
Double-boiling the greens for hours for a quick blanch plus short simmer
If you boil dandelion greens for two hours, you get something that might as well have come out of a lawnmower bag. A brisk blanch followed by a short simmer leaves the greens with some backbone, but still draws out the worst of the bitterness.
What it costs you. The texture changes - the greens keep a bit of chew. Also, you'll taste the actual dandelion more, which you may or may not view as progress.
Adding a splash of cider vinegar at the end
Vinegar's always been the trick for cutting through bitter greens. A whiff of cider vinegar finishes the dish and picks up a bit of the slack for the missing pork fat.
What it costs you. You'll notice the tang more without the cushion of fat. Not unpleasant, just sharper.
The numbers
| Per serving | Traditional | Lightened |
|---|---|---|
| Calories | 286 | 188 |
| Protein | 19.8g | 26.2g |
| Fat | 16.6g | 2.7g |
| Saturated fat | 5.8g | 0.6g |
| Carbohydrate | 18.9g | 19g |
| Protein per 100 kcal | 6.9g | 13.9g |
Every figure is computed from the recipe's own weighed ingredient list against public food composition databases. The appendix in Authentic-ish Soul Food prints the exact database row used for each ingredient, so any number here can be checked.
Allergens. sulphites.
The method is in the book
There's no getting around it: the classic is more decadent, silkier, and a better nap in a bowl. This version is for people who like greens to taste like actual plants and want some protein on the side. The smoked turkey's more assertive than pork, and the slight chew in the greens takes getting used to. You get a grown-up bitterness and a broth that wakes you up instead of sending you off for an afternoon nap. If you're really missing the fat, drizzle on a bit of olive oil at the end and lie to yourself.
The quantities and the method for this dish are in Authentic-ish Soul Food, along with 52 more. It is not out yet. The swap kit is free in the meantime.