British · Authentic-ish British
Smoked Haddock Kedgeree
370 kcal a serving, against 564 for the traditional version. That is 194 kcal off, or 34%, with 29.4g of protein. Serves 4. 50 minutes.
What the traditional version is
Here's the classic routine: poach undyed smoked haddock in milk, fry onions in plenty of butter, then stir in cooked basmati rice, curry powder and a few peas for colour.
What changed, and what each change costs
Butter out; onions sweated in water
All that flavour in the rice and onions? That's the butter talking. By softening the onions gently in a splash of water and a tight lid, you keep the aroma and lose half the richness.
What it costs you. Lose the glossy finish and the satisfying clump. The rice is drier, and the aroma's a bit less heady. There's no way round it: butter gives kedgeree its shine. Your consolation is the smoked fish and the eggs - if you want actual luxury, bring your own.
Whole milk poaching replaced with water
Milk in the poaching liquor adds a sweet creaminess, but the haddock doesn't care what bath it sits in. Water is fine and lets the fish speak for itself.
What it costs you. Much plainer poaching liquid. The fish still flakes perfectly, but you lose the subtle sweetness milk brings. It's a bit more bracing.
Rice down from 250g to 180g
Rice is the biggest source of carbs that don't do much for fullness. By using less rice, you lift the ratio of fish and eggs. You can still feed four without anyone fighting over the last spoon.
What it costs you. Less gloss and fewer mouthfuls of comfort. You get more fish and egg in every bite, but it's not as soft and abundant as the original.
Upped the eggs from 4 to 5, boiled a bit shorter
If you've ditched the butter, you need something to coat the rice. An extra egg, boiled so the yolk's just set but still soft, adds back a bit of luxury and more protein.
What it costs you. Slightly eggier kedgeree, which isn't a bad thing. The rice gets more yellow, less silky - but if you miss butter that much, you've only got yourself to blame.
Omitted finishing butter
Resist the urge to drop a cold pat of butter on top as you serve. The eggs fill in for texture, and a squeeze of lemon sharpens things up.
What it costs you. Nothing melts and puddles as you stir. The first mouthful tells you straight away that the decadence has left the building. But you can taste the smoke now.
The numbers
| Per serving | Traditional | Lightened |
|---|---|---|
| Calories | 564 | 370 |
| Protein | 32.3g | 29.4g |
| Fat | 19.4g | 7.1g |
| Saturated fat | 10g | 2.2g |
| Carbohydrate | 62.8g | 44.7g |
| Protein per 100 kcal | 5.7g | 8g |
Every figure is computed from the recipe's own weighed ingredient list against public food composition databases. The appendix in Authentic-ish British prints the exact database row used for each ingredient, so any number here can be checked.
Allergens. fish, eggs.
The method is in the book
The original kedgeree is more than the sum of its parts, and that's butter's work. This version is brighter, more direct, and a bit less forgiving if you mis-time something. Still, it's a breakfast (or lunch, no judgement here) that's high on flavour and unlikely to leave you comatose on the sofa. You lose the silk and shine, but the smoked fish and soft eggs mean you won't be dipping into your emergency stash of mini croissants. Bring some decent lemons and a sense of realism, and you might just prefer it for a Monday.
The quantities and the method for this dish are in Authentic-ish British, along with 57 more. It is not out yet. The swap kit is free in the meantime.