Cypriot · Authentic-ish Cypriot
Eliopita
341 kcal a serving, against 391 for the traditional version. That is 50 kcal off, or 13%, with 9.9g of protein. Serves 8. 2 hours (including proving).
What the traditional version is
Proper eliopita uses a robust dough kneaded with plain flour, yeast, water, salt and a good chunk of olive oil. The filling is jammed with stoned black olives, finely chopped onion and a heap of dried mint, with even more oil to glue it together. Some bakers add a handful of raisins for a sweet note, but most keep it savoury and salty, perfect for eating warm.
What changed, and what each change costs
Olive oil cut from 70g to 20g, all in the filling, none in the dough
The dough has always been a bit of a sponge for fat. I can't pull the olives but I can put the oil where it matters most: straight in with the filling, so you get it where you taste it. The crumb's a bit leaner, but with this much olive, you won't exactly notice a lack of gloss.
What it costs you. The bread's drier and you won't get that soft, almost cake-like edge. Old Cypriot bakers would shake their heads, but the olives are still front and centre, so it's not a disaster. Just don't expect that licking-your-fingers feeling.
Crank up the protein by swapping 100g of plain flour for 100g of gram flour
Gram flour's standard kit in Mediterranean cupboards and packs in more protein. It swaps in without drama, and does a bit to stop the dough drying out after you sack the oil.
What it costs you. You'll get a slightly nuttier taste and firmer crumb. Not a bad thing, but don't show this to anyone's Cypriot grandmother unless you fancy a lecture.
Boost the filling by nudging up the onion from 140g to 180g
Filling out the filling makes the slices juicier and adds a touch more bite. It's a stretch to say this is a major health move, but squeezing in more veg gets a nod from me.
What it costs you. The bread's less neat, a bit more likely to burst at the seams. But it was never supposed to be tidy.
The numbers
| Per serving | Traditional | Lightened |
|---|---|---|
| Calories | 391 | 341 |
| Protein | 8.3g | 9.9g |
| Fat | 12.5g | 7g |
| Saturated fat | 2g | 1.2g |
| Carbohydrate | 60.9g | 59g |
| Protein per 100 kcal | 2.1g | 2.9g |
Every figure is computed from the recipe's own weighed ingredient list against public food composition databases. The appendix in Authentic-ish Cypriot prints the exact database row used for each ingredient, so any number here can be checked.
Allergens. gluten.
The method is in the book
Is it better than the classic? No, it isn't, but it's not missing the point either. You'll still get a proper slab of olive and mint, but your fingers won't glisten afterwards and the extra gram flour gives a bit more backbone. Nothing's going to replace the original for eating in the shade of a fig tree, but if you want a chunk for lunch and still fancy a swim after, this is the way.
The quantities and the method for this dish are in Authentic-ish Cypriot, along with 47 more. It is not out yet. The swap kit is free in the meantime.