Jewish · Authentic-ish Jewish
Salt Beef
365 kcal a serving, against 425 for the traditional version. That is 60 kcal off, or 14%, with 55.7g of protein. Serves 8. 5 days curing, 4 hours cooking.
What the traditional version is
Brisket of beef, fat marbled through, cured for 5-7 days in a mix of salt, sugar, pepper, and pickling spice. Simmered slowly in water, with a few bay leaves, peppercorns and maybe an onion, until fork tender and blushing pink. Sliced thick, usually against the grain, and served hot in rye bread or cold for leftovers. No deli worth its salt would dream of using a lean cut.
What changed, and what each change costs
Brisket (fatty, 2000g) swapped for silverside (lean, 2000g)
Silverside is the leanest roasting joint going. It's got barely a fraction of the fat, more actual beef by weight, and you still get plenty of protein. You lose the unctuous, wobbly texture that brisket brings, but your arteries sleep easier.
What it costs you. The brisket's fat is the first reason salt beef is special. Take it out and you're left with meat that can go chalky if you so much as blink. It isn't classic salt beef, it's a dry cure that's got more in common with cold roast beef than anything you'd get at a deli counter. Slice it thin or accept your fate.
Salt in the cure dropped by 10%
Less fat needs less salt, otherwise the whole thing is just overpowering. It helps you taste the beef, not just the brine.
What it costs you. The cure is a touch less punchy. If you miss that salt rush, keep a shaker handy.
Boosted the black pepper and allspice for flavour
Without all that fat, the spices need to work harder. Upping them by a couple of grams brings some backbone back.
What it costs you. It's more aromatic, but don't expect wonder. A lean cut can't soak up flavour the way brisket does.
Kept the same onion, bay and water
No point fixing what's not broken. They're just along for the ride.
What it costs you. No difference here. Even I can't claim that using an extra bay leaf will make up for missing brisket fat.
The numbers
| Per serving | Traditional | Lightened |
|---|---|---|
| Calories | 425 | 365 |
| Protein | 52.2g | 55.7g |
| Fat | 18.6g | 10.7g |
| Saturated fat | 6.5g | 3.9g |
| Carbohydrate | 9.8g | 8.8g |
| Protein per 100 kcal | 12.3g | 15.3g |
Every figure is computed from the recipe's own weighed ingredient list against public food composition databases. The appendix in Authentic-ish Jewish prints the exact database row used for each ingredient, so any number here can be checked.
The method is in the book
The original is leagues ahead. Brisket gives salt beef everything: juiciness, flavour, and the confidence to stand up to a proper pickle. Silverside does its best, but it's no match. If you slice it thin and pour on the mustard, you get a meal that's filling, definitely beefy and refreshingly ungreasy. If you want old-school deli comfort, just eat the real thing once in a while and accept your fate. If you want something with chew that fills you up, this is a decent compromise and won't force you to nap at your desk.
The quantities and the method for this dish are in Authentic-ish Jewish, along with 52 more. It is not out yet. The swap kit is free in the meantime.